Reader and Community member Sue Farris recently shared her easy, money-saving trick for adding new bird feeders to her yard. She purchases baskets from thrift stores, fills them with seeds or nuts, and sets them out or hangs them in trees. It’s just that simple, and the birds love it.
Sue notes that there’s no need to line the baskets; the small holes allow rainwater to drain out, keeping seed fresh. When baskets start to break down from the weather, you can dispose of them and easily find more at any thrift store, especially after Easter.
This is a great and inexpensive way to put out extra food in the spring for birds just returning after migration. Nesting birds need lots of extra food to keep them going in the spring. You can also try filling the baskets with peanuts in the shell for feeding birds like blue jays that might bully birds at your regular feeders, or to distract the neighborhood squirrels.
Have you tried hanging baskets like this for your birds? What other tricks do you have for feeding birds?
Spring has finally arrived and its time to get back out into the garden and decide where you will be planting your new vegetables. You may already have started your vegetable seeds indoors and are anxiously awaiting warmer temperatures so that you can plant them outdoors.
But, before you plant your vegetable garden, you may be interested to know that some vegetables grow better when paired with certain vegetables. For example, carrots are helpful to the growth of peas because the secrete a substance into the soil that peas love. Another example of a successful vegetable pairing is planting onions with cauliflower.
This type of relationship where certain pairings of plants benefit the other is referred to as ‘companion planting’. This type of pairing of certain vegetables with select others can work in a variety of ways such as improving the flavor, attracting pollinators, repelling bad bugs and providing shelter from the elements.
*There are also some vegetable pairings that should NOT be done in the garden. Believe it or not, certain combinations of vegetables can actually inhibit growth.
One of my favorite books is called, “Carrots Love Tomatoes” by Louise Riotte, where she describes countless pairings of fruits, vegetables and herbs and how they benefit each other. This book has a prominent place on my bookshelf and if you love to grow vegetables as much as I do, I strongly suggest you get a copy for yourself.
Today, I’d like to share with you a few beneficial vegetable/fruit pairings that are described in Louise’s book and that I have had good success with in my own vegetable garden:
Carrots also make good pairings with chives, lettuce, onions, peas and tomatoes. In addition to carrots, lettuce does well when planted next to cucumbers and radishes.
Other successful pairings with broccoli include celery and potatoes.
Besides garlic, plant carrots, celery, onions and parsley with tomatoes.
In addition to spinach, plant strawberries alongside bush beans.
By repeating some of these vegetable pairings, you may notice a significant difference in the quality of your vegetables in your DIY vegetable garden this year.
Next time, we will talk about some vegetables combinations that should be avoided because of negative effects that they may have on the other.
In the meantime, for more information on companion plants in the vegetable garden, including flowers, check out the article “Companion Gardening”.
I’ll never forget the look of amazement on my friends’ faces when a hummingbird buzzed over the patio, past our picnic table right to the bright-red bee balm just a few feet away. Their jaws dropped in amazement. They had never seen a hummingbird that close before. In fact, they’d never even seen a hummingbird!
That’s when my chest swelled. “Oh yeah,” I said. “They come every day at this time.”
“The hummingbirds zip from flower to flower,” I boasted. “It’s part of our dinner routine—to see who spots one from the kitchen window first.”
Judging by the roll of my wife’s eyes, I knew what she was thinking…if they only knew my “lazy-man’s approach” to attracting these iridescent wonders. My secret is simple—plant nectar-filled flowers hummingbirds can’t resist, and kick back and enjoy the show.
Hummingbird Buffet
Hummingbird gardening is something anyone can try in most parts of the country and, yes, expect success.
You don’t need a huge manicured garden to get started. A simple hanging basket, container or window box packed with mostly red nectar-producing flowers does the trick. And once you see an iridescent hummingbird flitting from flower to flower, I guarantee you’ll want to expand your planting next year to bring in more of these unbelievable birds.
What Is Nectar?
Nectar is nothing more than sugar water produced naturally by all kinds of flowers. Some, like Queen Anne’s lace and zinnias, produce nectar on their shallow clusters of flowers. These attract bees, butterflies and other insects, along with hummingbirds.
The real surefire plants designed to appeal to hummingbirds are deep tube-shaped flowers. Hummingbirds probe these blooms with their long bills and tongues to lap up the energy drink that keeps their high-revving motors humming.
What do the flowers get in return?
“Hummingbirds play a large role in pollination,” explains backyard bird expert George Harrison of Hubertus, Wisconsin. “As hummingbirds dip their bills down into each flower, pollen clings to their bills and feathers so they transfer it from plant to plant.”
The pollen fertilizes the flowers, which produce seeds that ensure their survival.
Hummingbird Gardens
Reader Marie Harrison of Valparaiso, Florida started her hummingbird garden, admittedly, by accident.
“It was a little bit of luck,” she says. “The first flowers that attracted hummers to my garden were planted simply because I love flowers. When I started noticing the hummingbirds coming to certain flowers, I wanted to attract more of them. So, I started planting the flowers they liked best.”
Among her favorites are red pentas, Turk’s cap lilies, butterfly weed and honeysuckle. Over the years, Marie has learned what many hummingbirds lovers have discovered—if you know exactly what flowers hummingbirds are looking for, you’re almost guaranteed regular visits.
Ready to set out the welcome mat for hummingbirds in your backyard? Here are some tips to get started:
Seeing Red. A patch of red flowers to hummingbirds is like a neon “EAT” sign along a lonely highway. These birds search out nectar from many different colored flowers, but it’s the red ones that really have magnetic drawing power.
Scientists believe hummingbirds are attracted to red flowers because they’ve learned through experience that red tubular flowers contain the most nectar. So anything red—be it a flower, baseball hat or tricycle—triggers their instincts to investigate. That’s why hummingbird feeders usually have red feeding ports.
Tube-shaped Blooms. Many plants on hummingbirds’ hit list are tube-shaped flowers that provide large amounts of nectar deep at the base of their blooms. Hummingbirds can easily reach this sugar water, while bees and most other nectar-loving insects are left out.
Trumpet vine is an excellent example of tube-shaped nectar producers. It offers hummingbirds 10 times more sugar water than other plants!
Less fragrant, more filling. Many flowers hummingbirds flock to surprisingly have little to no scent. And, as nature would have it, there’s a good reason.
Sweet-smelling flowers attract bees and other insects. Hummingbirds, like most birds, have a poor sense of smell. They rely on sight to find food. So, by remaining odor-free, these flowers cater largely to hummingbirds.
Cascading Blooms. Hummingbirds are in a flying class of their own, with th eability to fly forward, backward, hover and even upside down!
Some nectar flowers, like fuchsia, have adapted specifically to accommodate hummingbirds. Their blooms hang downward, so only agile hummingbirds can reach their sweet treat.
Planting Your Hummer Garden
Planting a hummingbird garden is no different than creating a perennial border, mixed container or any other garden. The basics are the same—soil rich in organic matter that drains well will keep the flowers healthy. And healthy nectar plants produce loads of the sweet stuff.
There are hundreds of blooming plants—annuals, perennials, trees and shrubs—that hummingbirds feed from. Which ones should you choose? How should you plant them? It’s easier than you think:
Mix plenty of annuals. Annuals ensure long-blooming flowers that immediately produce nectar, from the time the migratory hummingbirds return north from their tropical winter grounds, until they leave in fall.
Aim for continuous blossoms. Perennials, flowering trees and shrubs are excellent additions to a hummingbird garden, but plan carefully before you plant. Seek a mix of nectar producers that bloom in succession, from early spring to fall.
Plant in clusters. Again, red is a sure bet for attracting hummingbirds. To get their attention, cluster red blooms together so they shout out, “Dinnertime!”
But that doesn’t mean your garden has to be monochromatic. These sweet-toothed birds will gladly feed from any color nectar flower, but use red to draw them in.
Plant low to high. Consider your hummingbird garden as a stadium, placing shorter plants in front of taller ones. This gives the birds a chance to easily get to all the blooms, without plant stems and leaves interfering with their whirring wings. As a bonus, you get to see them better from your patio or window.
Add to existing gardens. You don’t have to start from scratch. Many hummingbird plants blend in beautifully with existing flower gardens.
Deadhead for more blooms. The longer your nectar-producing plants produce flowers, the more hummingbirds you’ll attract.
Even though many of the flowers to attract hummingbirds are low-maintenance annuals and perennials, take time to deadhead blooms before they go to seed.
This keeps the plants pouring energy into flower production…a sure way to convince hummingbirds to stay near your backyard, and come back year after year.
We love this simple project because it’s an excuse to buy more wine! Just save your corks to use as plant markers. Write the name of the plant on the cork with a permanent marker, then stick it on a stake or bamboo skewer. If you don’t have wine corks, you can buy some at a craft store. This is one of the easiest ways we’ve seen to make plant markers. They’re pretty darn cute, too!
Materials:
- Wine corks (If you don’t have wine corks, you can buy some at a craft store.)
- Permanent marker
- Stake or bamboo skewer.
Step-By-Step Instructions:
Step 1
We love this project because it’s an excuse to buy more wine! Just save your corks to use as plant markers.
Step 2
Write the name of the plant on the cork with a permanent marker.
Step 3
Then stick it on a stake or bamboo skewer. If you don’t have wine corks, you can buy some at a craft store. This is one of the easiest ways we’ve seen to make plant markers. They’re pretty darn cute, too!
Recycle old clay pots into new front-porch decor. It’s a perfect way to put your house number, family name or the word “Welcome” on display for all to see. You can buy precut outdoor vinyl numbers or letters online or at the hardware store. Gather up the supplies below to get started crafting a stacked planter for your home!
Materials:
- 5 round terra-cotta pots (8 in., 10 in., 12 in. and two 6 in.)
- Spray paint in your choice of 3 colors
- 4-in.-tall x 2-in.-wide (or slightly larger) outdoor vinyl house numbers or letters
- Potting soil and flowers
- Waterproof epoxy or outdoor glue (optional)
Step-By-Step Instructions:
Step 1
In a well-ventilated area, spray-paint the exterior of the 8-in., 10-in. and 12-in. pots in your choice of colors. Apply as many coats as needed, drying completely between coats, for full coverage. Let pots dry 24-48 hours.
Step 2
Following manufacturer’s instructions, apply vinyl numbers or letters centered on one side of the 12-in. painted pot.
Step 3
Put about 2 in. of potting soil in the 12-in. pot. Then place an unpainted 6-in. pot upside down, centered on the potting soil. Press the upside-down pot’s rim into the soil to secure in place. Do the same, using more soil, inside the 10-in. pot with the remaining 6-in. pot. (The bottoms of these upside-down pots will provide a platform for the painted pots to sit on, forming tiers.)
Step 4
Stack the 10-in. pot inside the 12-in. pot, using the upside-down pot as a base. Do the same for the 8-in. pot inside the 10-in. pot. If desired, use a waterproof epoxy or outdoor glue to stabilize the pots.
Step 5
Fill all three stacked pots with potting soil, stopping a few inches from the rims. (The soil should completely cover the upside-down pots, if possible.) Then plant flowers as desired and display your creation on your front porch. Don’t forget to water it!
Editors’ Plant Picks: We used petunias for the three-tiered planter pictured here. They’re a good choice for a project like this because they’re easy to maintain, bloom throughout the summer and come in a variety of colors. Petunias prefer full sun, so if you’ve got a covered porch, try shade-tolerant coleus or begonias.
Many backyard birders also enjoy watching squirrels. That’s why we think you’ll like this “squirrel under glass” feeder. The DIY squirrel feeder offers a clear view of the squirrels, because the crafty critters actually climb inside the feed jar to eat!
James Motsinger of Manor, Texas shares the fun design. His “squirrel under glass” feeder provides a whole lot of entertainment in his backyard. As a side benefit, it helps keep the squirrels from raiding the bird feeders in his yard. Just mount it on the opposite end of your yard away from bird feeders and keep it filled.
James designed the squirrel feeder with holes in the sides large enough for the furry critters to crawl through, but snug enough to make the structure feel like a nesting box.
While squirrels were his target audience, the feeder has attracted a few other interesting visitors, too.
“I’ve found birds feeding in it, particularly during bad weather,” James says. “They seem to like being able to feed where it’s dry.”
Another plus is that this feeder requires only a minimum of materials. All that’s needed is a 6-foot fence board, a handful of screws and a 1-gallon glass jar. If you don’t have the glass jar, or don’t want to eat a year’s supply of pickles to build this feeder, ask local restaurants, schools or other establishments that buy food in bulk if they have a jar to spare.
“Offer to trade a finished feeder for a supply of jars,” James suggests. “If you can’t find a free jar, a sun tea jar bought at the store will work, too.” Just be sure it has an inside diameter of at least 6 inches, so squirrels can dine in comfort.
DIY Squirrel Feeder Materials:
- One 6-foot 1-inch × 6-inch “dog-eared” cedar fence board
- 2-1/2-inch and 1-5/8-inch galvanized deck screws
- One 1-gallon glass jar
Tools:
- Saber saw
- Rasp or rough sandpaper
- Compass
Step-By-Step Instructions:
Step 1
Cut the pieces from a 6-foot 1-inch × 6-inch fence board according to the board layout at left.
Step 2
Make the jar support by tracing the curve of the jar onto the wood. The lowest point of the curve should be 1 inch from the bottom of the board.
Cut along the line with a saber saw. Place the jar on the support to check that it fits well. Trim the sharp corners off the support (about 1/4 to 1/2 inch) and smooth rough edges with sandpaper.
The curved piece remaining from this will become the end piece.
Step 3
Cut entrance holes in both side pieces. Mark a spot about 3-1/2 inches from the highest corner of each board and center the hole from side to side. Draw a 3-inch-diameter circle with a compass, then cut out the holes with a saber saw. Smooth rough edges with sandpaper.
Step 4
Make a hole in the front of the feeder to hold the neck of the jar. This is a tricky step because jars vary in size. Start by determining the radius of the jar’s mouth. Then lay the jar on its side and measure from the tabletop to the bottom of the mouth. Add these two measurements plus 1 inch. Mark this distance from the bottom of the front board and center.
From this point, draw a circle 1/2 inch larger than the diameter of the mouth. Cut the hole with a saber saw.
Step 5
Assemble the front and sides of the squirrel feeder, then attach the assembled pieces to the base. These joints, and all others, will be fastened with 1-5/8-inch galvanized deck screws. Cedar splits easily, so be sure to drill pilot holes in each piece before driving in the screws.
Step 6
Attach the jar support about 3 inches from the far end of the base. Then position the rounded end piece—which keeps the jar from sliding out of the feeder—at the edge of the base. However, make sure there is enough clearance for you to tip the jar out for filling. If it’s too tight, use a rasp to round the inside curved edge of this end piece until the jar can easily be removed. If the jar is too loose, move the rounded end farther up the base before attaching it.
Step 7
Predrill holes in the mounting board, then attach it to the feeder with 1-5/8-inch deck screws.
Step 8
If you’d like to make a beveled edge on the roof piece so it tightly meets the mounting board, cut a 15° angle on the back edge with a table saw. Then attach the roof to the sides of the feeder, again using 1-5/8-inch deck screws.
Step 9
Mount the feeder on a tree with 2-1/2-inch deck screws (this is a heavy feeder—you’ll need large screws to mount it securely) and fill it with peanuts in the shell, cracked corn or birdseed. Then check your watch. It won’t be long before you’ll be inviting the neighbors over to admire your “squirrel under glass”!
Beautiful Flowering Trees: Tulip Tree
Liriodendron tulipifera • Zones 5 to 9
Though hard to see from a distance, the tulip tree’s unique early-summer flowers are sure to dress up your yard. The cup-shaped blooms on these beautiful flowering trees have greenish-yellow petals with orange bases. But be patient: Most types of tulip trees won’t begin to flower for 10 to 12 years.
Check out the top 6 trees with pink and white flowers in spring.
Cherry Tree
Prunus spp. • Zones 2 to 10
Whether you prefer flowers or fruit, you’re in for a treat if you plant a beautiful flowering cherry tree. Popular backyard choices are the ornamental purpleleaf sand cherry (Prunus x cistena), a shrubby variety with pink flowers and purple leaves, and the Sargent cherry (Prunus sargentii), a prolific bloomer.
Tree Growing Tip: Transplant cherry trees in spring. Select a protected spot to reduce the risk of snow or frost damage.
Crape Myrtle
Lagerstroemia indica • Zones 7 to 9
Crepe paper and crape myrtle have more in common than their pronunciations. The blossoms not only resemble the delicate paper, but the tree comes in almost as many colors, with flowers in endless shades of pink, red, white or purple. Fall brings a kaleidoscope of foliage, with reds, oranges and yellows mingling on the same tree. In winter, the smooth, peeling bark adds a subtle charm to the landscape.
Fringe Tree
Chionanthus virginicus • Zones 3 to 9
We don’t know which we like more: The fringe tree’s captivating silhouette or its panicles of sweetly scented creamy-white flowers. This tree usually starts from seed and grows very slowly, reaching only about 20 feet. But even at an average of 6 inches a year, this delicate tree is worth the wait.
Check out 15 beautiful white flowering shrubs.
Southern Magnolia
Magnolia grandiflora • Zones 7 to 9
Big, bold and beautiful‚ the southern magnolia is a legend in the Deep South. In fact, it holds the honor of being the state tree and flower of Mississippi, and is the state flower of Louisiana. It’s the granddaddy of beautiful flowering trees, with lemon-scented white blooms that reach up to 1 foot across. And its glossy deep-green leaves are just as impressive—up to 10 inches long.
Check out the top 10 flowering bushes for your yard.
Flowering Dogwood
Cornus florida • Zones 5 to 8
The flowering dogwood could have inspired the phrase “a breath of spring.” Though its true flowers are small and green, its surrounding colorful bracts put on a glorious show. To avoid pests and disease, plant dogwood in areas where the foliage can dry well after exposure to dew or rain.
Check out 10 pretty shrubs with pink flowers.
Redbud
Cercis spp. • Zones 4 to 10
After a long winter, the sight of a blooming redbud tree reminds us that spring is on its way! An early-spring showstopper, this tree bursts with a profusion of red, pink, purple or white blossoms before leaves emerge. Plant yours in a spot that has room to spread out, as redbuds are wider than they are tall.
Tree Growing Tip: Redbud’s flower clusters appear not only on new growth, but also on the trunk and older branches.
Check out more 22 early blooming flowers for spring.
Golden Chain Tree
Laburnum x watereri • Zones 6 to 8
Though it’s small in stature, the golden chain tree demands a second look. In spring, graceful chains of yellow blooms drip from its branches. This tree makes an impression when standing alone, but it’s even more impressive when planted as part of a group. One caution, however: All parts of this tree contain a compound that can be fatal if eaten.
Discover the prettiest yellow flowering shrubs for your yard.
Crabapple
Malus spp. • Zones 2 to 9
This beauty’s spring blossoms are often so lavish that they hide entire branches. The flowers give way to leaves and then fruit to keep the color show going, sometimes through winter. New varieties provide the famous flowers and resist common tree diseases, too.
Psst—here’s why you should plant a weeping crabapple tree.
Lambs’ Ears
Stachys byzantina • Zones 4 to 8
With thick, woolly leaves, lambs’ ears is as soft as it looks. In early summer, spikes of small, pinkish-purple flowers, which range from 4 to 18 inches in height, bloom on most cultivars. Lambs’ ears makes a wonderful choice for beds and borders.
Foam Flower
Tiarella cordifolia • Zones 3 to 8
Putting on a spectacular show in late spring, foam flower’s dainty, blossom-dressed spikes offer a delicate note in containers. Just be sure to position your display in light to heavy shade, since this perennial doesn’t put up with bright sunlight.
Lily-of-the-Valley
Convallaria majalis • Zones 2 to 7
This old-fashioned garden belle’s diminutive flowers and tender greenery might look delicate, but its appearance is deceiving. Truth is, lily-of-the-valley is tough as nails, able to adapt to conditions that topple even the most robust perennials. Clusters of fragrant, bell-shaped blooms grow on narrow, arching flower stalks. For plants under trees and shrubs, a yearly dose of fertilizer in spring will offer a hefty boost.
Lamium
Lamium • Zones 4 to 8
This pretty plant will definitely contribute a lovely new wrinkle to shady spots. Where some of these ground cover ideas can offer only color, lamium quickly adds a dense growth of corrugated foliage that is often variegated, for extra interest and visibility in shady spots. Use it to fill in bare areas under shrubs or other established perennials, where it will form textural mounds.
Barrenwort
Epimedium • Zones 5 to 9
Blanket your garden with a subtle splash of color. Barrenwort’s low-growing habit and delicate flowers work wonders in shady, otherwise bare areas under trees and shrubs. Its heart-shaped evergreen foliage often carries a pink edge or overall tint, which fades to bronze when autumn arrives.
Candytuft
Iberis sempervirens • Zones 5 to 9
Roll out the white carpet for your garden with this dense mat of pale blooms perfect for borders, rock gardens or containers. Clusters of flowers bloom from spring into summer, leaving candytuft’s evergreen foliage to maintain interest all year through.
Pachysandra
Pachysandra terminalis • Zones 4 to 8
Regarded as the most dependable and resilient of ground covers, shade-loving pachysandra offers whorls of glossy evergreen foliage that are topped with white flowers in spring. Don’t fret if growth isn’t as profuse as expected in the first year. When it comes to pachysandra, good things come to those who wait a couple of years.
Common Bugleweed
Ajuga reptans • Zones 3 to 9
As ground cover ideas go, this evergreen perennial makes an excellent choice with its masses of green, bronze or variegated foliage. Spires of blue-toned flowers appear in late spring to early summer. Bugleweed is an aggressive grower and may invade lawns, so plant it within a barrier. On the upside, you won’t have to wait long for results.
Creeping Phlox
Phlox stolonifera and Phlox subulata • Zones 4 to 8 and Zones 3 to 8
Topping off at just 6 inches high, creeping phlox is a smaller, low-growing, hearty relative of the familiar fragrant perennial. When it blooms in spring, it forms a cascading carpet of pretty little blossoms, making it a lovely choice for rock gardens. When nestled into a protective layer of mulch, creeping phlox doesn’t require much watering.
Creeping Thyme
Thymus polytrichus subsp. britannicus var. albus • Zones 5 to 9
Many of the most seasoned gardeners save a front- row seat for creeping thyme. Its short profile and low maintenance make it the perfect complement to any border, edging or even walkway.
Madagascar Periwinkle
Catharanthus roseus • grown as an annual
If you experience lots of heat in summer, Madagascar periwinkle is the ideal plant on our list of ground cover ideas. It flourishes in full sun and doesn’t need excessive watering. In colder zones, this pretty plant is useful for filling in bare spots between perennials. In mild-winter areas, it may become invasive.
Sweet Woodruff
Galium odoratum • Zones 4 to 8
Despite its delicate appearance, this plant is tough and well suited to shady, wooded areas. Its star-shaped, white blooms last for several weeks in spring.
Winter is the time to plant strawberries in Florida. When I went to pick up some plants to add to my strawberry bed this year, I discovered something I hadn’t seen before: pink-flowered strawberry plants!
While pink-flowered strawberry plants have been available in the past, they usually didn’t produce much fruit. The variety I’m growing, ‘Tristan’, was introduced in 2012, and produces plenty of small sweet berries. This variety doesn’t send out the usual runners that strawberry plants do, making it even better for growing in containers. ‘Tristan’ is an everbearing variety, meaning it will continue to produce as long as conditions are right.
There are several other varieties of pink-flowered strawberries available to add to your own fruit garden this spring. Look for them at your local nursery when planting season begins, or try some of these websites for plants or seeds:
- Park Seed: Tarpan Hybrid or Rainbow Treasure
- White Flower Farm: Berries Galore Rose
- Burpee: Toscana
Have you ever grown pink-flowered strawberries? Tell us about your experiences in the comments below!
Pink-flowered strawberries would be a great part of an edible landscape. Learn about other edible ornamentals here.
