With the right tools and techniques, you’ll get the tree pruning job done safely and keep your tree healthy and strong.
Before you start pruning, it’s important to understand how all the parts of a tree work together. The trunk, also known as the central leader or main stem, runs water between the roots and the leaves and provides the tree’s core strength.
The bigger, thicker branches form the tree’s framework. When you’re pruning, remove as little as possible from the framework. Keep in mind that the goal of pruning is to maintain a natural, balanced shape and good flow. Professional tree trimmers, known as arborists, strive to maintain a natural shape by leaving properly spaced branches spiraling up the trunk. And there’s one bedrock rule: Never just lop off the top without considering the overall look and health of the tree!
The following tips will help you approach pruning strategically, using the appropriate tools and making only essential cuts while keeping your tree healthy and attractive.
Prune From the Ground Up
Using a bypass pruner, start by cutting any small suckers growing from the base of the tree, the trunk or the roots. Suckers are vigorous shoots that often indicate the tree is under stress. Besides being unattractive, they compete with the tree for water and nutrients and should be removed.
Cut Dead, Diseased and Broken Branches
As you work your way up the trunk, identify all branches that “must go”—ones that are obviously dead, broken or diseased. Work your way from the bottom up as high as you can go comfortably and safely without a ladder. This is where battery-operated shears with an extendable pole truly come in handy.
Thin Out the Canopy
Water sprouts (the stems that sprout and grow vertically from major branches) can divert energy from the rest of the tree. They eventually rub and damage branches and ruin the tree’s appearance. Look for and remove some of the water sprouts, but don’t remove them all at once—doing so can result in even more sprouts.
Next, look for and remove any crossing branches that might eventually rub on and damage branches you intend to keep. These branches can also block light from healthy branches.
Never cut more than 25% of the total branches in the tree. For an easy estimate, remove no more than one out of every four to five branches. Focus on removing those with a narrow angle between the trunk and branch, and keep those with a strong, wide angle. The goal is to create a strong framework with room for growth. A lopper, battery-operated shears or a handsaw will all work for this step.
Cut Large Branches Above the Collar
When you’re identifying larger and more mature branches to be cut, look for a slightly swollen bulge where the branch connects to the trunk—called the branch collar—and cut just outside it, leaving the branch collar intact. Never cut off a branch collar, and never cut a branch flush to the trunk.
You can think of a branch collar as if it’s a turtleneck that protects the tree. Protective chemicals that help prevent decay from moving into the trunk are concentrated near branch collars. Preserving the branch collar reduces the size of the pruning cut and encourages faster wound closure.
Your Tree Pruning Toolkit
Arm yourself with the right tools for clean cuts, a safer reach and healthier trees
- Bypass Hand Pruner: For branches up to 3/4 inches thick.
- Bypass Lopper: For branches up to 2 1/2 inches thick.
- Pruning Saw: For branches from 1 1/2 to 5 inches thick.
- Battery-Operated Pruning Shears: Many of these come with extendable pole attachments for higher and hard-to-reach areas, as shown above. They are surprisingly strong and can handle 1-to 1 1/2-inch branches.
- Long Pole Pruner: Good for reaching dead and broken branches (1 to 2 inches) without the use of a ladder. Most have two cutting options and an adjustable height handle.
