We got the idea for this bowling ball garden art craft project from reader Joyce Kline and had so much fun creating our own, we knew we had to share!

Materials:

  • Bowling ball
  • Black silicone caulk
  • Two 8.5-inch lengths of #6 copper wire (have the hardware store cut it for you)
  • Two 1-inch round wooden beads
  • 1 quart Kilz exterior primer
  • 1 quart red exterior latex paint
  • 1 quart black exterior latex paint
  • Painter’s tape
  • Utility knife or scissors
  • Stenciling brush or sponge

Step-By-Step Instructions:

Step 1

Prime and paint the bowling ball (three coats of red paint might be needed). After the paint is completely dry, apply painter’s tape in the desired pattern. Stipple on black paint with a stenciling brush or sponge for texture.

Step 2

Make your own stencil by cutting differently sized circles from two pieces of painter’s tape put top to bottom. We used 2-1/2-inch- and 1-3/4-inch-diameter dots. Stipple the dots. After paint dries, remove the tape.

Step 3

Fill the thumb hole with black caulk. Set in two antennae made from lengths of copper wire with painted wooden beads affixed to the top. You may need to prop them up so they don’t droop while drying for 24 hours.

Step 4

These ladybugs are so easy to create, you may want to make a whole flock!Bowling Ball Garden Art Ladybugs

We love new ideas for recycled garden crafts. Our bowling ball garden art ladybugs were so popular, we decided to try a bumblebee variation!

Materials:

  • Bowling Ball
  • Silicone caulk
  • 101″ #6 copper wire. Have it cut at the hardware store at these lengths:
    • Two—8.5″ lengths for antenna
    • Two—20″ lengths for top wing
    • Two—22″ lengths for bottom wing
  • Window Screen: Two—8.5″ squares
  • Hardware cloth: Two—9.5″ squares
  • Two—1″ round wooden beads
  • Kilz exterior primer
  • Yellow exterior latex paint
  • Black exterior latex paint
  • 26 gauge bare copper wire (approx. 60-70″ for each wing)
  • Brush or sponge
  • Wire cutter

Step-By-Step Instructions:

Step 1

Prime the bowling ball and paint it with yellow paint. Apply painters tape to the ball where desired and paint or sponge black stripes on the ball. Tip: Allow primer and paint to dry between coats.

Step 2

Paint beads black and allow to dry. Bend the 8.5″ lengths of wire slightly to make antennae. Squirt a little dab of caulk into each bead hole. Push one bead onto end of antenna. Repeat for the next antenna.

Step 3

Bend the 20″ lengths into an oval shape for the bottom set of wings. Bend the 22″ lengths into an oval shape for the top set of wings. Bend down about 1-1/2″ at the ends to place in the fingerholes.

Step 4

Center 20″  and 22″ wire ovals over the window screen material and “sew” the thin copper wire to the wire to attach screening. Trim to 1/4″ past the edge and bend hardware cloth edges around copper wire. Tip:  We found it was easier “sewing” from the underside of the wing

Step 5

Squirt caulk into finger holes to attach antenna and wings. Let dry for 24 hours. Touch up areas on finger holes.

Ah, the perfectly petite and sphere-shaped pea. This harbinger of spring is just a tease to the garden bounty to come.

Scattered across a bed of crisp salad greens, hiding like emeralds in an Asian stir-fry or lightly steamed and served with a bit of mint, this garden gem is a real palate-pleaser.

A Bounty of Rewards

Peas are a perfect addition to any home garden. Rewards start early in the growing season with snowy white or violet blossoms that sway in spring breezes. Soon to follow are translucent pea pods that mature into ripe veggies in as little as 52 days.

But the pleasure doesn’t stop with picking. The process of shelling peas—the rhythmic movement of the knife as it snips off the tips and zips open the shells to release the rainfall of tumbling green globes— is as relaxing as the tranquility of tending a garden.

One of several early-season vegetables (along with radishes, scallions and beans), peas are a member of the legume family. This means they’re rich in protein, fiber, folic acid and vitamin A, yet low in fat and calories. That’s a nutritional grand slam!

Take Your Pick

In general, peas are categorized by if the pod is edible or not.

Edible-pod varieties are commonly called “Chinese pod peas,” which include popular snap peas and snow peas. These fully edible pods are often used to brighten up stirfrys, served raw in relish trays and tossed into green salads.

Green peas, garden peas and English peas are grown for the seeds only, because their tough pods are not edible. Inside, however, are green rounded pea seeds that are sweet and starchy in taste. These types of peas are often cooked and served as a side dish on their own or can be added to perk up pasta salads.

Pea plants are usually planted in late winter in warmer regions and in early spring in northern climates, to harvest before heat of summer. Or plant in midsummer to late summer for a fall harvest.

Plant peas when the soil temperature is at least 45 degrees and dry enough to till without clumping. Early-season peas need a winter covering to protect them from killing frost (although most are tough enough to tolerate moderate freezes).

One inexpensive trick is to cover them with clear plastic soda bottles with the bottoms and caps removed (for ventilation). You can also try bell-shaped glass covers to protect them from killing frost.

Pea-Pickin’ Time

Once the peas are ready to pick, harvest them regularly to encourage greater productivity. Pick inedible shell varieties when the pods are plump but not fully grown. If the pods wrinkle at the stem, you’re too late. Snow peas should be picked when flat.

To prepare peas for cooking, rinse and remove the stem tips from all varieties. Removing the shells’ strings is optional for sugar snap and snow peas, and all varieties with inedible pods should be shelled before cooking.

Steam lightly or blanch and serve cold in salads. Peas can also be frozen, after blanching for 2 minutes for shelled peas and 5 minutes for ones still in pod. Chill in an ice bath before freezing.

For maximum sweetness, cook peas immediately after picking. Up to 40 percent of the sugar in fresh peas will convert to starch in a few hours, even when refrigerated.

If necessary, you can refrigerate unwashed pea pods in perforated bags for a few days, with the edible-pod varieties lasting a bit longer.

Long gone is the notion that a tomato should be red. Thanks to the growing popularity of heirlooms, we see orange, purple, green and even black tomato varieties brightening up seed catalogs, garden centers, farmers markets and some grocery stores.

Heirlooms are all the rage, and it’s not hard to understand why. When you plant and nurture them, you’re growing a piece of history. Gardening becomes special when you know you’re sowing the same seeds your ancestors did, long before hybrids and pesticides were introduced.

You can find heirloom varieties of just about anything—carrots, lettuce, potatoes (one variety even has purple flesh!) and so many more. Heirloom flowers and herbs are also popular with gardeners.

Make this the year you plant at least one heirloom in your backyard. You won’t be disappointed.

So what exactly is an heirloom anyway?

The truth is, there’s no official answer. Some say in order to be considered an heirloom, a cultivar must have been introduced before 1951, when plant breeders began to grow hybrids. But others say a true heirloom dates back even further than that, to at least the 1920s.

Kathy McFarland of Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds in Mansfield, Missouri, says her company doesn’t use a cutoff date. As long as the variety is old and has been passed down from generation to generation, it’s considered an heirloom.

It’s the same for Seed Savers Exchange, an organization dedicated to the preservation of heirloom seeds. Rather than use an arbitrary year, it identifies an heirloom by the documentation and generational history of a seed.

It’s not just about dates, though. Most important, in order to be an heirloom, a variety must have been open-pollinated—that is, self-pollinated or pollinated by insects, birds, winds or other natural mechanisms while still maintaining its characteristics. Keep in mind, though, that not every open-pollinated plant is an heirloom. So to be an heirloom really is a mix of things.

Are you thinking about diving into the world of heirlooms for the first time? Kathy’s advice for beginners is to start small, preferably with something you like to eat, since many heirloom varieties are known for tasting better than their modern counterparts.

Kathy also recommends taking good notes. Write down what you grew, how well it did and what the growing conditions were like. The following year, take a look at the results and make changes as needed. Nothing is worse than discovering the best tomato you’ve ever had only to realize you forgot the name of it.

Not into veggies? Heirloom seeds are out there for flower and herb gardeners, too. Baker Creek has a huge selection of heirloom flower seeds available for purchase both on its site, rareseeds.com, and in its catalog.

Some are true antiques. The purplish-black Nigra hollyhock, for instance, was planted by Thomas Jefferson at Monticello and was mentioned by an earlier grower in 1629.

Though these historic flowers and herbs have disappeared faster than heirloom vegetables, they still exist, ready to wow you with the beauty and fragrance that charmed
our ancestors.

If you aren’t yet convinced that heirlooms are for you, sample some at a farmers market. Chances are, you’ll be
a fan. We hear the watermelon is to die for!

Top Heirloom Picks

Jere Gettle, co-founder of Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds and pictured here with his family, shares his favorite heirloom varieties with us. Give them a try!

Beans

Jere recommends beans to any newbie. Nothing’s easier to grow.

Jere’s favorites: Chinese Red Noodle, Purple Podded Pole (above), Roma II

Growing tips: Grow in full sun. Climbing types will need the support of a trellis or fence.

Why we love it: Beans are packed with nutrients, and there’s no limit to the ways you can use them in the kitchen.

Carrots

Why stop at orange ones when you can have purple, red, white or yellow? Remember that the darker the carrot is, the more nutrients it has.

Jere’s favorites: Little Fingers, -Chantenay Red Core, Parisienne

Growing tips: In most areas, carrots should be planted in spring or fall. Northern gardeners can store them right in the garden by covering the roots with straw or leaves right after the ground lightly freezes.

Why we love it: They’re so versatile! Carrots are delicious raw, or cooked in soups and stews.

Cucumbers

Try them in green, white and even orange.

Jere’s favorites: Japanese Long, Lemon Cuke, Dragon’s Egg

Growing tips: Sow seeds directly into soil. A trellis will make cucumbers a lot easier to harvest. They thrive in full sun.

Why we love it: There’s nothing like a fresh, crunchy cucumber straight from the garden. Or go Asian and try steaming or stir-frying them.

Eggplant

Eggplant is fairly easy to grow. There are hundreds of varieties out there in almost every color imaginable.

Jere’s favorites: Little Green, Rosa Bianca, Fengyuan Purple

Growing tips: Grow eggplant indoors from seed in pots about 10 weeks before last frost. Harvest when the fruit is glossy and firm to the touch.

Why we love it: Low in calories and full of nutrients, it can be used as a meat substitute in lots of dishes, so it’s perfect for vegetarians.

Lettuce

As a rule of thumb, the darker the leaf, the more nutritional value lettuce has.

Jere’s favorites: Red Romaine, Little Gem, Forellenschluss

Growing tips: Lettuce will grow in most garden soils. In cool areas, you can grow it through the summer; gardeners in warm climates can harvest lettuce throughout winter.

Why we love it: For salads and sandwiches, lettuce is a must. Many Chinese dishes use steamed lettuce. If you’re feeling brave, give it a shot.

Melons

Some varieties can be grown in as little as 65 days. But if you’re not in a hurry, you have thousands more to choose from.

Jere’s favorites: Old Time Tennessee, Banana, Charentais

Growing tips: Melons thrive in warm, dry areas but need more care in other climates. Knowing when they’re ripe can be tricky; watch for color changes and softening of the fruit.

Why we love it: You can’t beat that sweet taste, and the huge number
of varieties means there’s at least one for every gardener.

Onions

Onion bulbs were among the first things the Pilgrims planted in the New World. Any good cook knows why.

Jere’s favorites: Red of Florence, Flat of Italy (below), Australian Brown

Growing tips: Generally speaking, you’ll want to look for so-called
short-day onions in the South and long-day onions in the North.

Why we love it: Raw, sauteed or deep-fried—onions add a flavor that nothing else can match.

Peas

Most pea varieties are bright green, but you can find snow peas with yellow and purplish-blue pods.

Jere’s favorites: Golden Sweet Snow, Little Marvel, Oregon Sugar Pod II (above)

Growing tips: Most varieties are climbers, so use a trellis or other support system. Garden pea pods are ready to be harvested when they’re plump and bright green. You can harvest edible podded peas before the seeds swell.

Why we love it: Packed with vitamins, protein and fiber, yummy pea pods brighten any meal.

Heirloom peppers
These peppers may look strange, but they are heirloom peppers and are absolutely delicious. Baker Creek Seeds

Peppers

They’re easy to grow and a rewarding beginner veggie to try in the garden.

Jere’s favorites: Melrose, Orange Bell, all the Marconi peppers in a variety of colors

Growing tips: Try using raised beds. Peppers love warm soil, good drainage and lots of sunshine.

Why we love it: The options are infinite. It’s fun to experiment with color, size and degree of hotness, from mild bell peppers to sizzling chilis.

Radishes

There are two types: Small salad radishes are commonly eaten raw, while winter radishes are much larger and are good for cooking.

Jere’s favorites: Round Spanish Black, Chinese Red Meat, Chinese Green Luobo (Qingluobo)

Growing tips: Radishes need a lot of organic matter for good drainage.
Plant seeds in full sun, about a quarter-inch deep.

Why we love it: Small salad radishes add crunch to cold foods. To perk up a stir-fry, try radish greens.

Squash

Don’t let the strange appearance of some squashes turn you off. Experimenting with these prolific growers will bring lots of rewards.

Jere’s favorites: Gelber Englischer Custard, Sucrine Du Berry, Yokohama

Growing tips: Grow squash in rich soil with plenty of drainage and in full sun.

Why we love it: Any seeds you don’t save for planting can be eaten. Soak overnight in salt water and then roast them in the oven.

Seed Savers Exchange

Seed Savers Exchange is a nonprofit organization making huge strides in the preservation of heirloom seeds by maintaining a network of gardeners committed to saving and sharing seeds and plants.

Exchange members receive a 10 percent discount on purchases from the SSE catalog and get exclusive publications throughout the year. For more information or to becomea member, visit SSE’s website. Nonmembers can order from the catalog, too, so check out the site and buy your first heirloom

Does the thought of eating sweet Bing cherries straight off the tree or harvesting tart Montmorency fruits for pie make your mouth water?

If you answered “Yes,” ask yourself, “How daring are you?” Growing your own cherry trees isn’t for the faint of heart.

Cherries, particularly the sweet ones, are susceptible to insect and fungal infestation and may require frequent applications of pesticide and fungicide. They also need to be pruned regularly, allowing sunlight to nurture flower-bud development and help them dry out after a rain so fungus doesn’t take hold. And unless you throw a net over the entire tree, says Penn State Cooperative Extension Agent Mary Concklin, who grew Bing cherry trees at her home in New York, “you’ll be fighting the birds for the cherries.”

Still, the rewards are many:

  1. A full-size, mature cherry tree will produce 50 to 100 pounds of fruit in one season. That’s a lot of pies, jam and cherry-stained smiles.
  2. Cherry trees are also a glorious sight in spring, covered with white blossoms that fall like snow.
  3. And something that tastes so delicious can be good for you, too. A handful is less than 50 calories, and they’re high in vitamin A and potassium. There’s even scientific evidence that suggests eating cherries may ease inflammation from arthritis.

It sounds to me like growing cherries in my backyard is worth the trouble.

Be Fruitful

To get your cherry tree off to a great start, plant it in a sunny, dry site, with good air circulation and fertile soil (sandy loam is best). Unless you have acres to spare, home gardeners should choose cherries grafted to dwarf or semi-dwarf stock, such as Colt, Gisela and MxM.

To give you some idea of size, mature, standard-sized sweet cherry trees grow 40 to 50 feet high; tart are generally smaller, around 25 feet. Dwarf varieties, such as North Star (a full-dwarf tart), grow 7 to 10 feet, while Meteor (a semi-dwarf) reaches 10 to 15 feet.

Also consider in what part of the country you live. In general, cherries don’t do well in extreme climates. Trees on Colt rootstock, for example, can be very sensitive to drought and are not cold-hardy—bad news for northern climes. One of the most popular sweet cherries, Bing, doesn’t grow as successfully on the wet East Coast, where too much rain can split and rot fruit. Contact your local Extension service agent to ask what cherry varieties grow best in your area.

Sweet cherries are the most challenging to grow. Earlier bloomers, they’re often caught in spring frosts and rain, which can crack or even eliminate the fruit and ruin the crop. Tart cherries are more resistant to brown rot (the enemy of all cherry trees) and cracking. Plus, most sweets need a second variety for cross-pollination, though not every combination will be fruitful. (Yet another reason to call your Extension agent.)

It’s important to prune cherry trees regularly. Cherry trees can be trained by using central or modified leader system pruning techniques. The central leader system, compared to the open-vase method, encourages one main trunk with strong side branches. Be sure to allow plenty of space between limbs and smaller branches to allow air and sunlight to reach the center of the tree.

Harvest How-to

To ensure a fruitful harvest, keep birds away with either nets or other barriers.

“You can’t use noisemakers like the commercial growers, or your neighbors might get a little mad at you,” says Mary. “But you can take some metallic CDs and string them up around your trees. That will work for a while. Nets, however, are your best defense.”

Wait until the cherries are red before harvesting—even the tart ones sweeten up considerably the last few days they ripen. Depending on your tree’s size, you’ll probably be picking them every other day.

Pies, Jams and More!

Speaking as an inveterate jam maker, I advise you to invest in an inexpensive cherry pitter (you can get them for about $30). Otherwise, you’ll be sweating over every pie, crisp or jar of your best-recipe preserves (mine replaces a quarter cup of cherries with a quarter cup of Kirschwasser, or cherry brandy!). You can freeze some of your bounty, pits and all, so you don’t have to pit ’em all by hand at harvest time.

But don’t restrict cherries to just dessert. They add a spark to savory foods, too. Pork and beef especially benefit from their sweet or tart flavor. For a party recently, I mixed a can of cherry pie filling with orange marmalade and orange juice before pouring it over a baking ham. It took only minutes to make—just a little less time than it lasted on the dinner table.

Who would’ve guessed Bugs Bunny and Peter Rabbit are part of the healthy crowd? No, they don’t pump iron…or excel at yoga. It’s those carrots worked into their diet that puts spring into their step.

Chock-full of vitamins and fiber, the common carrot is a nutritional powerhouse. In fact, a 1/2-cup serving contains four times the recommended daily allowance of vitamin A, all in the form of disease-fighting beta-carotene. Oh, and unlike some healthy fad foods, carrots taste great, too.

If that’s not enough, carrots also deserve kudos for their convenience and versatility. They can be eaten raw or cooked and are used in everything from soups and salads to cakes and juice.

Ready to grow carrots in your own garden? Here’s how you can “hop” to it!

From the Ground Down. To successfully grow sweet healthy carrots, start with the soil. A well-prepared garden with deep loose soil allows the tasty roots to grow downward and fully develop. Otherwise, they may become stunted or misshapen.

To get your bed into carrot-top shape, lighten the soil with organic matter, such as compost or peat moss. Avoid fresh manure because it encourages deformed roots. Deeply till the amendments into the top 8 to 9 inches of soil, removing any rock or debris that may impede growth. If your soil is beyond help, consider creating a deep raised bed instead.

Proper Planting. Carrots are a cool-season crop and grow best when planted in early spring. For a continuous harvest, plant a new batch every 3 to 4 weeks until midsummer.

Sow no more than two or three seeds per inch to avoid overcrowding (it’s not easy—the seeds are tiny). Plant them 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep in rows spaced 1 to 1-1/2 feet apart.

A few weeks after germination, when sprouts are about 1 inch tall, thin to two seedlings per inch for smaller-growing varieties, and one seedling per 1 to 2 inches for larger carrots.

Weed Patrol. Controlling weeds the first few weeks is essential to a young carrot’s development. Neglect your weeding duties, and they’ll overrun your tender crop. Just be careful not to dig too deep if using a hoe or hand cultivator. This could destroy the shallow-growing root of the carrot.

Instead, loosen the weeds along the soil’s surface and hand-pull. Applying mulch between the rows when the carrots are established will also help.

Water Well. Carrots thrive when they receive consistent moisture from germination until harvest. So whether it comes from nature or your garden hose, make sure these thirsty root vegetables get 1 inch of water each week. It’s best to soak the soil thoroughly, as this promotes good root development.

Harvest Time. All your work is a small price to pay for the crisp healthy treat that grows beneath your feet. To reap your reward in fall, push roots to the side and pull them out of the ground, or dig them out using a garden spade or fork.

Harvest smaller-growing carrots when the roots are at least 1/2 inch in diameter and larger-growing when 1 inch in diameter. And don’t think you need to harvest the entire crop at once. Carrots can remain in the soil for weeks or more—and even well within the winter months if they are covered with a thick layer of mulch.

Keep Them Fresh. To store your bright orange bounty, wipe the carrots clean and cut the tops 1 inch above the root. Place in the crisper drawer of your refrigerator in perforated plastic bags or, if space is an issue, store in the garden in a pit insulated with straw.

Having a beautiful, healthy garden is a goal that many of us work hard to achieve. But did you know that certain plants are able to do much of the work for you?

It’s called companion gardening, and people have been practicing it for centuries. It’s simple, really—companion plants have qualities that benefit other plants. Not all horticulturalists are going to agree with these backyard home remedies, but many gardeners have used them for years to repel damaging insects, add nutrients to the soil, improve the growth of vegetables and prevent plant disease. Is it worth a try? You decide.

The practice of pairing plants isn’t new. Native Americans used the “three sisters” method, growing beans, corn and squash together. The corn provided support for the beans, the squash shaded the soil and kept weeds down, and the beans replenished the soil with nitrogen at the end of the season. Now that’s a mutually beneficial relationship!

When it comes to companion plants, some pairings aren’t always obvious. For example, who would think that strawberries would love being planted next to onions, or that roses enjoy being surrounded by garlic? Yet both combinations work well.

Natural Insect Repellent

Using plants with insect-repelling qualities is an easy way to decrease the use of insecticides and still reduce insect damage. The scents of basil, catnip, garlic, marigold, and petunia repel some damaging insects without harming beneficial ones. There’s still a debate among scientists, and results may vary from one garden to the next, but you may want to give it a try. You’ve got nothing to lose and some possible benefits to gain.

Another way to keep damaging insects away from your garden is to trick them by masking the other plants’ scents. You can easily do this by mixing fragrant herbs like basil, chives, oregano, rosemary and sage in with your other plants. Because the strong-smelling herbs mask the scents of desirable plants, damaging insects often will leave them alone.

Certain plants act as magnets for bad bugs. Geraniums, lantana, petunias and nasturtiums are irresistible to many insects. For instance, whiteflies love lantana, and aphids can’t resist nasturtiums, so those pests may focus on their favorites, rather than feasting on your other plants. This method is definitely worth a shot. Try interspersing these magnet plants throughout your garden and see if that does the trick, but it’s not a guaranteed magic solution. Keep monitoring your plants and address the problem early.

Good Bugs and No-Fuss Fertilizer

Next, consider plants that will attract more good bugs. Since they naturally help keep bad bugs away from your garden, they’re a perfect fit for companion gardening. Flowering plants such as alyssum, bachelor’s button, bee balm and cosmos not only lure helpful insects that will prey upon damaging insects, but also attract pollinators such as bees.

One of the easiest ways to draw in beneficial insects is to include plants with the bell-shaped flowers that often appeal to them. Foxglove, Canterbury bells and campanula are all good options. Plants in the dill family will also bring in good bugs that will eat pests. As a bonus, dill is also a host for swallowtails.

With companion planting, you can save money on fertilizer, too. Most plants enjoy enriched, fertile soil. But instead of adding fertilizer, why not let plants do the work for you?

Alfalfa, beans, beets, clover and kohlrabi all add nutrients to the soil when they die at the end of their growing season. Alfalfa, beans and clover take nitrogen from the air and convert it into a form of nitrogen that the plants can absorb in the soil. Beets and kohlrabi naturally add vital minerals to the soil.

Benefits to Veggies

Many gardeners believe complementary plants in the vegetable garden can boost growth and flavor because they secrete substances into the soil that help other vegetables. To improve the flavor of your tomatoes, for example, plant basil alongside them. Or try planting chamomile with cabbage, cucumbers or onions to improve their flavor and make them grow faster.

In addition to repelling damaging insects, herbs such as basil, garlic, mint, sage and thyme help reduce the incidence of disease in your garden. Onions provide similar benefits, and they also prevent mold on strawberries.

Tall Plants with Benefits

Another easy form of companion gardening is simply to use tall plants. They provide shade to sun-sensitive plants, and also act as a windbreak. Sunflowers planted next to your vegetable garden, for example, can protect cucumbers and tomatoes from the searing afternoon sun.

With all the benefits that companion plants offer your garden, why would you spend extra time spraying for pests and fertilizing? Just choose the right pairings and I believe you could enjoy a thriving natural garden full of bigger, tastier, healthier plants—with minimal effort.

Common Beliefs About Companion Plants

  • Alyssum – Attracts helpful insects and pollinators
  • Basil – Repels flies
  • Beans – Add nitrogen to soil
  • Beets – Add minerals to soil
  • Borage – Improves growth, flavor and disease resistance
  • Chamomile – Attracts beneficial insects; improves flavor and growth
  • Chives – Repel damaging insects; improve flavor and disease resistance
  • Garlic – Repels damaging bugs; improves disease resistance
  • Marigolds – Repel nematodes and whiteflies
  • Onions – Repel damaging insects; improve flavor of strawberries

Birds don’t require fancy designs when they’re choosing a nesting site. This simple DIY birdhouse is made from a single pine board and requires only a few tools to assemble. Learn how to build a birdhouse yourself and save your money for bird seed!

Birdhouse Materials:

  • One 5-foot 1- x 6-inch No. 2 pine board
  • 1-5/8-inch galvanized deck screws
  • 2-inch galvanized finishing nails
  • Power drill
  • Appropriate-size spade bit
  • Hand saw

Step-By-Step Instructions:

Step 1

Using the full width of the 1-inch x 6-inch board, cut out the pieces as shown in the board layout diagram.Simple DIY Birdhouse 2

Step 2

Attach the front to the sides with 1-5/8-inch deck screws. Predrill the holes in the front piece to prevent the wood from splitting. After nesting season when it’s time to clean out the birdhouse, remove these screws for easy access.

Step 3

Attach the back to the sides with 2-inch finishing nails. Predrill the holes, making sure each one is straight.

Step 4

Cut about 1/2 inch off each corner of the floor for drainage.

Step 5

Recess the floor 1/4 inch up from the bottom of the house, then attach it with 2-inch finishing nails from the sides and back. Do not nail the floor from the front or you won’t be able to open it for cleaning.

Step 6

Attach the roof to the sides with 1-5/8-inch deck screws. That’s it! Next, learn how to build a bluebird house and attract nesting birds with better birdhouses.

The striking colors of birds aren’t just for our viewing pleasure. Every hue, stripe and spot serves a vital purpose.  There two main reasons for their colorful bird feathers and markings. First, birds use their colors to attract mates and intimidate competition. And second, they use them to provide protection from predators.

When we look at birds, the colors we see aren’t always what they seem. Bird plumage colors are a result of either pigment or from the light reflecting off feathers. For example, bluebirds, indigo buntings and blue jays are not really blue. The color we see is the light reflecting off their brown feathers. Fortunately for the birds, some predators do not see the same bright-blue reflections as we do. So they remain protected. This is the same reason why a bluebird in heavy shade will not look blue.

When it comes to courtship, we know that it is the females of most species that select their mates, so the color and intensity of the male’s plumage can influence a female’s choice. Think about the northern cardinal. The male catches the eye of the female with his brilliant red color. She selects him as a mate, and her subtler tan and reddish coloring camouflages her when she’s nesting.  Why, then, is the male not conspicuous to such predators as the sharp-shinned and Cooper’s hawks? Some scientists believe that hawks don’t see some red hues as well as female cardinals do. So the male’s flashy feathers may not stand out to hawks, but they still attract a mate.

bird plumage
When mating season ends, bird plumage sometimes changes to help it blend in, like that of this American Goldfinch. Marty Gordner

Less colorful birds, such as sparrows, woodcocks, whip-poor-wills and sandpipers, are marked to blend in with their habitat. Their streaks, stripes, bars, spots and lines look so much like their surroundings that they are almost impossible for us to see. If you ever find the nest of a killdeer, meadowlark or mallard duck, you will know what I mean. They blend into their backgrounds perfectly. I remember flushing a whip-poor-will from her nest on a forest floor covered with dead leaves. Two days later, I returned to the site to photograph the bird on her nest, but I could not find her. It wasn’t until I stared directly at the bird for several minutes that her black eye popped out at me. I was shocked by how well it was camouflaged.

The brilliant colors some birds display during the nesting season tend to be muted when they molt into their fall and winter plumages. The bright yellow of a male American goldfinch, for example, becomes an olive-brown from late summer until the following spring. In fact, the goldfinches look so different in winter that many people believe they are a different species.

Bird plumage colors are definitely a science. Some might be brighter than others, but they all relate to their survival.