Step 1

Decide how long you want the rain chain to be. Using a bench vise, bend enough spoons to complete the project. If you don’t have a vise, use a hand clamp to secure the flat part of the spoon against a table with the rest of it hanging over. Use pliers to bend the spoon down.

Step 2

Remove the bowls from a dozen or so spoons. Use the same method as in Step 1, only bend each spoon back and forth until the bowl snaps off.

Step 3

Drill holes in the end of each spoon handle, including the handles without bowls.

Step 4

Put two spoons together back to back so the bowls are facing outward. Fit a bowl-less handle between the handles of the two spoons, leaving several inches extended past the spoons. The protruding end of the handle should have the hole in it. Wrap wire around all three handles just above the bowls. Then wire together the handles of the spoons at the other end as tightly as you can. Be sure to leave some extra wire for attaching the next segment. Repeat this step until you’ve used all your spoons.

Step 5

Once all the segments are assembled, attach them to each other by twisting together the extra wire you left at both ends. Make sure to leave enough wire on one end of your chain for hanging.

Step 6

Hang the rain chain from a tree limb above a rain garden, or use it in place of a downspout above a splash block to direct water away from the house. You can also use a decorative glazed pot or rain barrel below the chain to collect water for use in the garden.

Step 1

Ready to build? Click here to open the DIY bird feeder instructions in PDF format, perfect for printing and taking with you to the workshop!

Step 1

Clean the glass pieces thoroughly with alcohol wipes and let them dry. Use either a sponge or paintbrush to paint the glass pieces, covering completely. If you want, add details like stripes, circles or petals. A couple of layers might be necessary to get full coverage. Use the markers or pens to add small details.

Step 2

Bake the glass pieces according to baking directions on the paint bottles. (In general, bake at 325 degrees on the top rack for about 20 minutes.) But be careful: Very thin plates can break in the oven. And be sure to open your windows or turn on the exhaust fan, because the paints can have a strong odor when baking. Turn off the oven, and let the glass pieces cool completely before removing them.

Step 3

Lay the largest plate flat on a covered surface. Apply silicone to the bottom of the next largest piece and press it down onto your base plate. Continue applying silicone to the bottom of each of the smaller pieces until the flower is assembled. Let the whole piece dry overnight.

Step 4

The next day, apply silicone to the smallest vase and, holding the vase upside down, press it to the back of the flower. This will serve as the mount that fits over the pipe for display purposes. Let it dry overnight.

Step 5

Pound the pipe into the ground, slip the flower over the pipe and enjoy. Now make a few more—they look great in groups of two or three.

Step 1

Make your own paper shapes and cut about 1/8 inch from the edges. Tape them to the copper sheet metal. Cut the copper along the outline of each shape using a scissors. Sand sharp edges. Punch any holes desired with a paper punch. Flatten each shape with a roller, rolling pin or even a glass bottle on a smooth surface.

Step 2

Place the copper shapes on a soft pad (such as a dish towel) and write plant names with a blunt pencil. Use a black paint marker to write within the indents, making the names more prominent. Decorate the edges if desired.

Step 3

Clean shapes and wires with steel wool or sandpaper before soldering.

Cut wire with side cutting pliers to desired length (mine are about 10 inches). Solder wire to the back of each marker. Apply flux first and heat until it bubbles. Then touch the solder to the side of the wire until it flows. Solder on both sides of the wire, holding the wire in place until it cools.

Step 4

Spray the markers with clear enamel to prevent tarnishing. Now you’re ready to add them to your garden!

Step 1

Cut each 2×4 in half to make 16 3-foot pieces. Cut a 3-1/2-inch x 3/4-inch deep notch (a rabbet) in both ends of each piece. You can do this on a table saw or with a circular saw. Make several close cuts (about 1/8 inch apart) across the grain in the notched section. Use a hammer and chisel to break out the wood between these cuts. Smooth with a rasp.

Step 2

Fit notched ends together to make four 3-foot-square frames. Drill holes for two carriage bolts in the opposite corners of each notch. Use construction adhesive in each joint before assembling. The nuts should face the outside so the bolts won’t catch on your clothes when you’re turning the pile.

Step 3

Use tin snips to cut the hardware cloth into four 3-foot-square sections. Tack each corner of the hardware cloth to the frame with poultry wire staples. Then staple around the frame every 2 inches.

Step 4

Connect two frames with two door hinges, then put two hook-and-eye gate latches on the other ends. Repeat this step for the remaining two frames. Stand the frames to form a square and latch the sections together.

Step 5

Put your bin in a level, well-drained area in full sun, with good air-circulation. Add equal parts brown and green wastes.

To aerate the pile, mix or toss frequently with a garden fork, or poke air holes into it with a broom handle. Keep the pile moist, like a sponge, but not soaking wet.

The process is finished when the bottom of the pile has dark, rich soil that crumbles in your hand.

Step 1

You can use just about any kind of screen for this project as long as it provides good drainage and the holes aren’t too big. (I used a spatter screen, but a window screen would work.) Cut to fit in the middle of your wreath and remove everything else that could potentially get in the way.

Step 2

Cut the twine or rope into three lengths, about 48 in. each. Tie at evenly spaced intervals around the wreath.

Step 3

Flip the wreath over on your work surface and place the screen on the back of the wreath. Thread a length of wire through the screen near the edge and then around a sturdy vine in the wreath, twisting the ends together to secure. Do this at three or four intervals or until screen is tight.

Step 4

Flip the wreath back onto its right side, and begin tucking the seed heads in among the vines. Continue until the wreath is covered. Fill the middle with your favorite birdseed and hang! Next, learn how to make a DIY bird seed wreath.

Step 1

Cut out four disks-two should measure about 4-3/4 inches across, and two should measure about 3 inches across-with a band, saber or scroll saw. Make the circles with a compass, or simply trace the rims of quart and 1/2-pint paint cans (or other cans similar to the dimensions above). Cut the smaller disks carefully—they should be as close to identical as possible.

Center and glue (or predrill and fasten with three 1-5/8-inch deck screws) each small disk to a larger disk. Clamp these pieces together until the glue completely dries. This will form the top and base of the feeder.

Step 2

Fasten one end of the chain to a screw eye. Open the eye with two small pliers. (Twist in opposite directions until the eye opens just enough for the chain to be inserted.) Close the eye with a pliers.

Drill a pilot hole in the center of one of the small disks and turn in the screw eye. This will become the feeder’s base.

Step 3

Wrap hardware cloth around the completed base. (If using a 1/2-pint paint can to determine the size of the smaller disks, wrap the hardware cloth around the base and the can, which should be positioned about 10 inches higher than the base. Wrap heavy-duty rubber bands around the base and can to form a cylinder.)

Cut the hardware cloth about 1/4 inch beyond the last complete square where it comes together. This will leave small wire tabs on one end. Now you can remove the rubber bands and paint can.

Step 4

Bend hardware cloth into a cylinder and attach to the feeder’s base with netting staples (with the chain inside).  Join the two ends of hardware cloth to form a cylinder. Secure by wrapping the tabs around the other end using needle-nose pliers. Make sure the cylinder isn’t too tight at the feeder’s top, otherwise it will be difficult to lift up and close when filling with peanuts.

Tip:  We recommend spot soldering the wire at the seam about every 2 inches for a better hold. If there is excess wire at the tabs, trim with a wire cutter.

Step 5

The chain can be looped for hanging or attached to an “S” hook. Slide the top up along the chain and then fill the cylinder with peanuts, unsalted and in the shell. You’ll be amazed by how fast the peanuts start attracting birds!

Step 1

Clean out your cans and let dry. Drill three holes in the shape of a triangle on both the bottom and rim of each can. Be sure the holes on the top and bottom line up so your feeder isn’t crooked.

Step 2

Paint or decorate your cans any way you like. I used acrylic paint in many layers, allowing the paint to dry. Then I accented with a gold color metallic pen. You can also use spray paint or permanent markers to create your own unique design.

When completely dry, spray the painted cans with a little bit of matte finishing spray.

Step 3

Cut the wire that will hold the two cans together. Cut six pieces, 9 inches long, of 18-gauge wire. Insert the wire into the rim of each can and twist a few times, leaving approximately 3 inches for decorative curling and 6 inches for hanging. Leave unattached for now.

Step 4

Create the hanger portion of the feeder by cuting about 12 inches of 16-gauge wire. Make a small loop at one end, and then fold the wire over to make a hook. At the other end, create an eyehook. Depending on where you will be hanging your mealworm feeder, adjust the length as needed.

Step 5

For the decorative element under the hanger, cut a 12-inch piece of 16-gauge wire to loop and curl. Fold the wire in half, and make a loop at both ends in a figure-eight formation. Cut the remaining ends to the same length and curl. Attach this piece to the hanger by creating an eyehook at each end of a bead and attach the two pieces together.

Step 6

Attach the cans together. Start with the bottom can. Place a bead on each stem, insert the excess wires into the top can and make a small loop at the end of each one. Do the same with the top can, attaching the excess wires to the hanger.

Step 7

You can add swirls, beads and any other decorative elements to the bottom of the second can. Using 4-inch pieces of wire, insert them through the bottom of the can and decorate as desired.

Finally, it’s time to hang the feeder and add the mealworms. In no time at all, you’ll be attracting bluebirds from all over the neighborhood!

Step 1

Once you’ve chosen your limbs and have played with the positioning a bit, use a drill or screwdriver and drywall screws to attach the branches where they intersect.

Step 2

Using screws, attach plant holders to the branches where you want your bowls.

Step 3

Position the bowls, fill with water and find a comfy chair nearby. Before long, nature will come calling!

Tips: If you want to make friends with garden bugs, add a few rocks to one or more bowls for perching.